Classix II - Slightly different

[pknaz]

So I've decided to give Paul's Classix II a try. Since I don't have the means to do my own boxes, I needed an alternate solution for a box. Que the .56cuf Parts Express Knock Down.

While this is not quite the perfect size box for this design, the outside dimensions are almost exact. I'm not concerned about this, as I can add filler to consume the extra box volume.

I picked up the kit from Meniscus and both the boxes and the kit arrived this week. I won't have time to work on these until this weekend/next week, but thought I'd get a build log started.

The FNG.

[Paul Carmody]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

The Classix II will do just fine in those boxes. Baffle width is the same, and the other dimensions are in the same general ballpark, so you're golden. Hope you like 'em!

[pknaz]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

Boxes part way glued up, and I've started putting the XOs together.

I would love some input on the position of the inductors before I glue & solder the XOs!

[pknaz]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

The Classix II will do just fine in those boxes. Baffle width is the same, and the other dimensions are in the same general ballpark, so you're golden. Hope you like 'em!

Thanks, Paul. I've enjoyed other designs by you, so I'm confident I'll enjoy them!

[Chris Roemer]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

Lookin' good. Nice layout.

[Leroy R]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

It looks like things are spaced and oriented as well as they can be on that board. The only thing I see is that the .25mH coil looks like it is closer to the 1.2mH coil than it is to the .5mH coil. You might try to get that closer to being centered between the two and if it were going to be closer to one or the other, it might be preferable to be closer to the .5 than the 1.2

[pknaz]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

With the round over on these boxes, these woofers are going to be a tight fit.

Also thought I'd show a pic of me testing the crossovers. So far, so good.

Picked up a router today to do the baffle, but before I even plugged it in I decided I didn't like the plunge action (not very easy or accurate) so I'll take it back and pick out a different one. Anyone have any suggestions on good, yet economical routers that the Jasper Jig will fit on?

[pknaz]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

I thought something didn't quite look right when I put the drivers on the baffle, I was shipped the wrong box!
I'll have to get that sorted out with PE and start over with the box building. At least the crossovers are finished and working.

[Jeff F.]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

Do the woofer and tweeter ground wires along with the terminal ground wire all solder together? It looks that way to me, but the photo is dark so I wasn't for sure. Thanks

[Chris Roemer]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

They CAN (on a design where the tweeter gets wired "normal" polarity).

[Jeff F.]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

They CAN (on a design where the tweeter gets wired "normal" polarity).

Hmm, the classic ii design does call for reverse polarity on the tweeter. So, still not sure whats going on with the wiring in this layout. Anybody else built these using this layout?

[kevintomb]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

Is that the .23 Cu. Ft. box you got?

I noticed no internal bracing, and it appears a bit small.

[bullittstang]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

Hmm, the classic ii design does call for reverse polarity on the tweeter. So, still not sure whats going on with the wiring in this layout. Anybody else built these using this layout?

Top right hand corner, will be the input ground, ground for your woofer and tweeter (positive), then in the bottom right hand corner or the board will be your Tweeter Negative. That way since they are "opposite" on the XO board, all your wires to the speakers will be normal (so tweeter positive wire from XO will go to positive on tweeter) and tweeter ground wire from XO will go to negative on tweeter).

The way it is printed is figuring you will "flip" polarity at the actual tweeter, I prefer to wire it so all the wires are "correct" on the speakers, in case I give them to someone and they need to replace a speaker later on.

Clear as mud???

[Jeff F.]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

Top right hand corner, will be the input ground, ground for your woofer and tweeter (positive), then in the bottom right hand corner or the board will be your Tweeter Negative. That way since they are "opposite" on the XO board, all your wires to the speakers will be normal (so tweeter positive wire from XO will go to positive on tweeter) and tweeter ground wire from XO will go to negative on tweeter).

The way it is printed is figuring you will "flip" polarity at the actual tweeter, I prefer to wire it so all the wires are "correct" on the speakers, in case I give them to someone and they need to replace a speaker later on.

Clear as mud???

OK, so if I'm understanding this correctly. All three of the crossovers ground wires (input/woofer/tweeter) do solder in the same spot (top right of the board). Then the positive wire to tweeter (lower right of the board) connects to the tweeters negative terminal and the negative from the board (top right) connects to the tweeters positive terminal. Thanks for your help/patience.

[bullittstang]

Re: Classix II - Slightly different

OK, so if I'm understanding this correctly. All three of the crossovers ground wires (input/woofer/tweeter) do solder in the same spot (top right of the board). Then the positive wire to tweeter (lower right of the board) connects to the tweeters negative terminal and the negative from the board (top right) connects to the tweeters positive terminal. Thanks for your help/patience.

You got it. Just remember to connect to the tweeter in reverse polarity (exactly as you stated above) and you will have some great sounding speakers. These were my first build and I still love them.