Edited to show the drawing. The inside mouth is only an inch different from front to back mounting.
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The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!
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My main concern with locating to the rear is that, by relocating, it might change where the port is located in the transmission line as it would be located "around the corner". But in reality, the inside of the port is located approx mid way in the "curve" of the corner.
Edited to show the drawing. The inside mouth is only an inch different from front to back mounting.Last edited by tomlang; 03-16-2021, 03:26 PM.
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Originally posted by tomlang View PostI'm embarrassed that after 7 years I can now build these!
The big black port on the front is not visually pleasing. Can it be located to the rear? If I use a non-flared port on the front, it is stated it may have chuffing issues. How high is my risk of that happening?
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Rear is fine, just keep them out from the walls a bit. Risk of chuffing is entirely dependent on your listening level. If you are listening at 100 db then you will prob have chuffing. If at more normal levels, probably ok if the only difference is flared vs. not flared and the inner diameter is the same.
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I'm embarrassed that after 7 years I can now build these!
The big black port on the front is not visually pleasing. Can it be located to the rear? If I use a non-flared port on the front, it is stated it may have chuffing issues. How high is my risk of that happening?
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Don Radick on this Forum built his "Galleon" MTMs with this driver and made a router jig from poly-carbonate or similar to enable flush mounting:
I've worked with the SB16pfc (same frame shape) and gave up trying to flush mount them! They still sounded fine.
The new versions of the SB13 have a round frame, anyway, the weird shape has been discontinued. The old ones must have been inspired by the Austin Allegro, an awful 1970s British car with a "quartic" steering wheel, exactly the same shape.
Geoff
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Flush mounting woofers has little to no effect on their response, as the frame is too thin compared to the wavelengths being radiated to create diffraction or boundary reflection issues. It may have some affect on the tweeter output. You use a jig to rout the recesses, there are on-line videos that show how it's done.
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Can anyone help me understand the acoustic costs/benefits of flush mounting these woofers? Regardless, how would it actually be done with a router?
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Good day, does anyone have a CNC files for the Uluwatu build?
I just ordered my speakers and cross over and am excited to get started. Hoping someone has a file on this forum, id like to build on all your experience and hard work.
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Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!
Originally posted by Exarch View PostI just ordered all the drivers from Solen for the Uluwatu, due to both the tweeter and woofers being greatly discounted there. I urge any Canadians to check them out if they are looking for these or other SB drivers.
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Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!
Originally posted by sugercube View PostHello, this is my first port. I have built a pair of Uluwatus and they are sounding a bit harsh and lacking bass. I mos probably have wiring issues and would appriciate any assistance with correcting it. Please have a look a the crude (but accurate) wiring of crossover and drivers.
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Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!
And you will have a big grin when your sitting and listening.
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Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!
Even though I still haven't finished my Speedster TMM's that I bought the parts for almost two years ago, I just ordered all the drivers from Solen for the Uluwatu, due to both the tweeter and woofers being greatly discounted there. I urge any Canadians to check them out if they are looking for these or other SB drivers.
I'm sure when I get to attempting to recess the pincushion frame twelve times, I will regret this.
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Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!
Originally posted by tomlang View PostYes, it needs a rim for the port as well as being pocketed on the back side of the front for the sides to meet. And of course I need to toolpath the other panels. Call me cheap, but I think I'll just use the 4 inch pvc pipe as a port and the vifa BC25SC06-04 tweeter which I already have...
Note the crossover schematic. Are the two resistors I have circled simply typos as they don't seem to be represented anywhere?
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