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The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!

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  • tomlang
    replied
    My main concern with locating to the rear is that, by relocating, it might change where the port is located in the transmission line as it would be located "around the corner". But in reality, the inside of the port is located approx mid way in the "curve" of the corner.

    Edited to show the drawing. The inside mouth is only an inch different from front to back mounting. Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by tomlang; 03-16-2021, 03:26 PM.

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  • scottvalentin
    replied
    Originally posted by tomlang View Post
    I'm embarrassed that after 7 years I can now build these!

    The big black port on the front is not visually pleasing. Can it be located to the rear? If I use a non-flared port on the front, it is stated it may have chuffing issues. How high is my risk of that happening?
    Quoting for my above reply so you get a ping

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  • scottvalentin
    replied
    Rear is fine, just keep them out from the walls a bit. Risk of chuffing is entirely dependent on your listening level. If you are listening at 100 db then you will prob have chuffing. If at more normal levels, probably ok if the only difference is flared vs. not flared and the inner diameter is the same.

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  • tomlang
    replied
    I'm embarrassed that after 7 years I can now build these!

    The big black port on the front is not visually pleasing. Can it be located to the rear? If I use a non-flared port on the front, it is stated it may have chuffing issues. How high is my risk of that happening?

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Per Curt C. his prototype did not flush mount the woofers, the pictures are of a customer build. All the measurements were of Curt C.'s prototype.

    Articles on speaker building and design, as well as complete write ups on many different speaker designs. 7

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  • djg
    replied
    I "finished" my home theater a few months ago, which left me speakerless in the living room (1899's moved into theater), so I've decided to build a pair of Uluwatu's for music in the main living area. I have officially joined the "WAF" club, so I now must consider how all future speaker builds...

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  • Geoff Millar
    commented on 's reply
    Don Radick on this Forum built his "Galleon" MTMs with this driver and made a router jig from poly-carbonate or similar to enable flush mounting:



    I've worked with the SB16pfc (same frame shape) and gave up trying to flush mount them! They still sounded fine.

    The new versions of the SB13 have a round frame, anyway, the weird shape has been discontinued. The old ones must have been inspired by the Austin Allegro, an awful 1970s British car with a "quartic" steering wheel, exactly the same shape.

    Geoff

  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    Flush mounting woofers has little to no effect on their response, as the frame is too thin compared to the wavelengths being radiated to create diffraction or boundary reflection issues. It may have some affect on the tweeter output. You use a jig to rout the recesses, there are on-line videos that show how it's done.

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  • drumcircle
    replied
    Can anyone help me understand the acoustic costs/benefits of flush mounting these woofers? Regardless, how would it actually be done with a router?

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  • mason_wy
    replied
    Good day, does anyone have a CNC files for the Uluwatu build?

    I just ordered my speakers and cross over and am excited to get started. Hoping someone has a file on this forum, id like to build on all your experience and hard work.



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  • knowledgebass
    replied
    Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!

    Originally posted by Exarch View Post
    I just ordered all the drivers from Solen for the Uluwatu, due to both the tweeter and woofers being greatly discounted there. I urge any Canadians to check them out if they are looking for these or other SB drivers.
    Knock another 20% off at Solen for your American dollar. So tempting although I have no place for them...

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  • djkest
    replied
    Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!

    Originally posted by sugercube View Post
    Hello, this is my first port. I have built a pair of Uluwatus and they are sounding a bit harsh and lacking bass. I mos probably have wiring issues and would appriciate any assistance with correcting it. Please have a look a the crude (but accurate) wiring of crossover and drivers.
    Did you get this figured out yet?

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  • kenny_k
    replied
    Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!

    And you will have a big grin when your sitting and listening.

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  • Exarch
    replied
    Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!

    Even though I still haven't finished my Speedster TMM's that I bought the parts for almost two years ago, I just ordered all the drivers from Solen for the Uluwatu, due to both the tweeter and woofers being greatly discounted there. I urge any Canadians to check them out if they are looking for these or other SB drivers.

    I'm sure when I get to attempting to recess the pincushion frame twelve times, I will regret this.

    Leave a comment:


  • ggetzoff
    replied
    Re: The Uluwatu - another new Curt C design?!

    Originally posted by tomlang View Post
    Yes, it needs a rim for the port as well as being pocketed on the back side of the front for the sides to meet. And of course I need to toolpath the other panels. Call me cheap, but I think I'll just use the 4 inch pvc pipe as a port and the vifa BC25SC06-04 tweeter which I already have...

    Note the crossover schematic. Are the two resistors I have circled simply typos as they don't seem to be represented anywhere?
    Did you ever get your drawings to a tool path?

    Leave a comment:

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