Scan-Speek 4" for 49 cents?

[jbruner]

It's the SB15NRXC30-8-UC. These are as close a match as you could ask for.

[ani_101]

When I saw this thread rekindled, I remembered seeing it originally. I knew I had a stash of 24/box buyout 5" drivers stuck away somewhere in a box. Well, with being stuck at home I finally dug back in a storage closet and found them. I have no pics at the moment, but will take a few and post them. I simply mimicked what JBruner had done and followed the scan slit cone pattern.

In my case, I used calipers and slowly adjusted them until the outside of the cone was 5 widths of the caliper when rotating it around the outside of the cone (if you can follow that description). That gave an easy way to locate the outside edge of the slices at the surround. I marked these spots lightly with a yellow colored pencil. Then I made a similar set of marks half-way between those marks, which gave the location of the end of the second set of slices. I used the same process to locate the start of the slices around the dust cap, then drew light yellow lines between the marks as guides for the actual slices to be made. I also did one with and without the dust cap treatment. I didn't save the measurements, but the dust cap treatment was well worth doing, imo. Really only took a few minutes to do the mark up a driver and not that much longer to do the cuts.

All I had on hand was some Aleene's tacky glue, so I put a bead of that down each line. It is a pretty sloppy job, but I had the time and didn't want to wait to get some other glue/sealer. I let it dry for a few hours before doing any measuring.

The measurements below are made in an old ported mtm cabinet, with cardboard taped over the openings. The one opening was cut through the cardboard to fit the driver surface mounted with painters taped applied around the driver to hold it in place and help seal the cabinet. Not the ideal for pristine measurements, but I thought it would be good enough to get the job done for comparisons sake. One set of measurements were taken of a raw driver. The mic was 18" away, the gate was 4ms and it was up on a stand (indoors) with the mic about 60" high. Measurements were taken at 0-15-30-45º on the horizontal axis and then in the software, a summed response of those 4 was developed in post processing. Then the measurement was repeated with the treated driver. The untreated is on top, the treated on the bottom. This is just spl of course, no other measurements were done.

I'll let you all interpret the results, but suffice to say I thought they showed a very valuable improvement.

Next up I'm going to take a look at a 6.5" pro driver, the B&C 6md38 to see what improvements are had. ore pics and measurements later. Hats off to Jbruner for his original efforts and posts on this subject.

Edit: I forgot to mention that no smoothing was applied.

the top end looks really smooth. didn't follow your caliper decription...

[ani_101]

Long wait, but...



Look for a shootout coming to a thread near you!

which driver is it? looks good side by side to the Rev

[dlneubec]

I intend to take some photos and post them here, just haven't gotten to it yet. I will also see if there is any name/# on the box

[jbruner]

I'm curious which buyout drivers they are. I may have the same ones.

[jbruner]

Today I used "the wet look" on some surrounds. I like the way it looks, but so far 2 coats hasn't completely killed the cone edge resonance. I'll keep trying.

[jbruner]

When I saw this thread rekindled, I remembered seeing it originally. I knew I had a stash of 24/box buyout 5" drivers stuck away somewhere in a box. Well, with being stuck at home I finally dug back in a storage closet and found them. I have no pics at the moment, but will take a few and post them. I simply mimicked what JBruner had done and followed the scan slit cone pattern.

In my case, I used calipers and slowly adjusted them until the outside of the cone was 5 widths of the caliper when rotating it around the outside of the cone (if you can follow that description). That gave an easy way to locate the outside edge of the slices at the surround. I marked these spots lightly with a yellow colored pencil. Then I made a similar set of marks half-way between those marks, which gave the location of the end of the second set of slices. I used the same process to locate the start of the slices around the dust cap, then drew light yellow lines between the marks as guides for the actual slices to be made. I also did one with and without the dust cap treatment. I didn't save the measurements, but the dust cap treatment was well worth doing, imo. Really only took a few minutes to do the mark up a driver and not that much longer to do the cuts.

All I had on hand was some Aleene's tacky glue, so I put a bead of that down each line. It is a pretty sloppy job, but I had the time and didn't want to wait to get some other glue/sealer. I let it dry for a few hours before doing any measuring.

I also used the caliper method, but I didn't mark the cones. I use a set of cardboard guides to cut against. It's good to see people experimenting. The glue I use is very soft, so the slits don't need to be wide, or even go to the edge of the cone. The revelator uses stiffer glue, but their slits appear to be wider. If you want to clean up the very top end, look under the dustcap. There's a discussion about this also on DIY Audio forum.

[a4eaudio]

jbruner used DAP Alex Plus Clear (stated somewhere either in this thread or the PM180 thread). I see that it comes in black too. I'm not sure how many alternatives he tested, but this is what he settled on as the best that he tested.

[dlneubec]

Yeah, the Aleene's looks bad and probably dries too hard, so I think I will try something else next time. The Permatex black silicone latex base adhesive seems like a good idea. I need to go back and see what Jbruner used. I guess I'm gonna be visiting Amazon soon.

[Wolf]

WOW! What an improvement...

When I had a bad PRV 5MR450-NDY driver I experimented on cutting when I pulled the cone just to see if I could do it. I used Permatex black silicone adhesive. 1- it's black, and 2- siliconized-latex based.
Wolf

[dlneubec]

When I saw this thread rekindled, I remembered seeing it originally. I knew I had a stash of 24/box buyout 5" drivers stuck away somewhere in a box. Well, with being stuck at home I finally dug back in a storage closet and found them. I have no pics at the moment, but will take a few and post them. I simply mimicked what JBruner had done and followed the scan slit cone pattern.

In my case, I used calipers and slowly adjusted them until the outside of the cone was 5 widths of the caliper when rotating it around the outside of the cone (if you can follow that description). That gave an easy way to locate the outside edge of the slices at the surround. I marked these spots lightly with a yellow colored pencil. Then I made a similar set of marks half-way between those marks, which gave the location of the end of the second set of slices. I used the same process to locate the start of the slices around the dust cap, then drew light yellow lines between the marks as guides for the actual slices to be made. I also did one with and without the dust cap treatment. I didn't save the measurements, but the dust cap treatment was well worth doing, imo. Really only took a few minutes to do the mark up a driver and not that much longer to do the cuts.

All I had on hand was some Aleene's tacky glue, so I put a bead of that down each line. It is a pretty sloppy job, but I had the time and didn't want to wait to get some other glue/sealer. I let it dry for a few hours before doing any measuring.

The measurements below are made in an old ported mtm cabinet, with cardboard taped over the openings. The one opening was cut through the cardboard to fit the driver surface mounted with painters taped applied around the driver to hold it in place and help seal the cabinet. Not the ideal for pristine measurements, but I thought it would be good enough to get the job done for comparisons sake. One set of measurements were taken of a raw driver. The mic was 18" away, the gate was 4ms and it was up on a stand (indoors) with the mic about 60" high. Measurements were taken at 0-15-30-45º on the horizontal axis and then in the software, a summed response of those 4 was developed in post processing. Then the measurement was repeated with the treated driver. The untreated is on top, the treated on the bottom. This is just spl of course, no other measurements were done.

I'll let you all interpret the results, but suffice to say I thought they showed a very valuable improvement.

Next up I'm going to take a look at a 6.5" pro driver, the B&C 6md38 to see what improvements are had. ore pics and measurements later. Hats off to Jbruner for his original efforts and posts on this subject.

Edit: I forgot to mention that no smoothing was applied.

[jbruner]

You were one of the people who were influential to me when I wanted to start modifying speakers. I visited your pages back then to learn about tweeter mods. I truly mean you no disrespect personally. This thread has a particular theme, though. I'm trying to promote science. Science is not polite.

[dlr]

Ok, that was addressed 6 years ago in post #137.
Let me be clear.
Development of my slicing technique was complete 5 years ago.

Forward thinking people must do their own experiments.
Asking me to do it for you is rude.
Really.
Thank you for all the information you have generously shared in the past.

I didn't read through all previous parts of the thread, don't remember threads from 5-6 years ago, though what you were showing was interesting and was (apparently again) impressed by how well you made the cuts, but I don't think I'm the rude one. Excuse me for trying to be supportive.

dlr

[jbruner]

I've considered doing that, haven't had the nerve to cut into reasonably good drivers. I would suggest using "The Wet Look", sold by P.E. in black and clear. Do it in stages, taking measurements at each stage to document the changes made.

I've thought that the paper SB drivers are excellent candidates for improvement. Try the surround treatment with Wet Look. And on the cone slits as well, it's got excellent damping properties. It may improve resonance issued in the mid-band. Check out my page on this technique.

.

Ok, that was addressed 6 years ago in post #137.
Let me be clear.
Development of my slicing technique was complete 5 years ago.

Forward thinking people must do their own experiments.
Asking me to do it for you is rude.
Really.
Thank you for all the information you have generously shared in the past.

[dlr]

Long wait, but...

I've considered doing that, haven't had the nerve to cut into reasonably good drivers. I would suggest using "The Wet Look", sold by P.E. in black and clear. Do it in stages, taking measurements at each stage to document the changes made.

I've thought that the paper SB drivers are excellent candidates for improvement. Try the surround treatment with Wet Look. And on the cone slits as well, it's got excellent damping properties. It may improve resonance issued in the mid-band. Check out my page on this technique.

Insignia Treatments

dlr

p.s. Gotta compliment you on the cut quality.