Originally posted by AEIOU
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DML's are in phase so they are Bipolar. Again if they were out of phase then dipole.
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I don't see how they are bipoles, unless there are two opposing drivers one on the front and one on the back. A single driver or single diaphragm, the rear wave is out of phase 180 degrees with the front wave. Equal front and back output has nothing to do with phase, it is phase that makes it a bipole or dipole. Either the back radiation is in phase or is out of phase. But whatever.
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The sound radiating from the front and back are almost equal making them bipolar. If they were more out of phase then dipole.
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Originally posted by peterv View PostUsing a Dayton DAEX 25FHE -4 exciter speaker on Foamular XPS panel ( 1" x 2' x2' ) . To block the frequency below 100hz would i use a 100uf capacitor ?
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Well, I haven't been following this thread at all, but I wouldn't call it a bipole, I'd say it's a dipole.
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Using a Dayton DAEX 25FHE -4 exciter speaker on Foamular XPS panel ( 1" x 2' x2' ) . To block the frequency below 100hz would i use a 100uf capacitor ?
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Originally posted by Unbiasedsound View Postone of my audiophile buddy ... he told me if you think that is expensive there are certain caps that can cost $100.00 and over per cap
​​​https://www.hificollective.co.uk/cat...er-p-4514.html
And that's in great British pounds....
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Can anyone tell me what he did wrong with his DML panels?>Dayton Speaker Project - Part 2 - YouTube
Hint. DML's are Bipolar/omni open baffle type that radiate sound almost equally from the front and back (sides also depending on ones design). DML's should be placed at least one foot away from the back walls for optimal sound as this is part of the DML's signature (magic) sound.
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Here is one thing I have learned recently with capacitors while experimenting with my DML panels. Unless the capacitor is of high quality it actually degrades the sound especially with the electrolytic caps. I ordered 125uf electrolytic caps for my small desk top satellite panels and I immediately heard a degrade in sound quality. Dayton makes a 100uf cap but it cost 30 something bucks each which isnt worth it because my small panels cost less then then the price of a pair of Dayton 100uf caps. I thought that was expensive until I talked to one of my audiophile buddy who I havent talked to in ages and he told me if you think that is expensive there are certain caps that can cost $100.00 and over per cap. He uses clarity caps, I said I cant afford it. lol
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Here is a review of the beginners pink panels> How To Build "The World's Best Speakers" - Are Flat Panel Speakers Really Any Good? - YouTube
He is most likely not into hi fi audio if he thinks they sound good. To the average person these beginner pink panels sound good to them but in reality they dont sound any better then a entry level conventional cone speaker, in fact they probably sound worse. He even compares his phone speakers to the DML panels lol most any speaker will sound better then the phone speakers. lol
The only thing the pink dml panels will do better then most entry level conventional cone speakers is the soundstage and imaging.
Like I said many times before its all about ones design. The better the design the better the sound quality.
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Damn that thread on the DIY forum of a study of DML's as a full range speakers has gone insane as they are talking about using metal skin all over there panels like aluminum, titanium and magnesium.
DML's are sensitive to any type of skin materials used.
I mean if you like harsh metallic sounds that are very fatiguing then hey I guess it would work for you. lol
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In T.I. video he mentions that one can use some type of absorbent material on the back walls to reduce reflections. That is not the ideal way as DML's benefit from rear wall reflections. I have mentioned before 2 proper techniques to acoustically treat your panels.
1st one is to place a rubber/foam type of material directly under the DML panels but ones panels must be floor standing and not hanging in which T.I. uses the hanging method so its not possible to use this technique on hanging panels.
The second technique is to take a very small piece of (I use F.K. brand) rubber/foam around 1/4 size and place it directly on the back center of the exciter. This technique is from Shelly Kats Podium panels. The only difference is I use a way smaller size damping piece. Larger the size of the rubber/foam the more damping while smaller the size less damping. Shelly kats uses a larger piece and IMO that is over damping.
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Originally posted by jim85iroc View Post
for sure, but I don't do my critical listening in the shower, so if it can help even out the response a bit, I think it'll be an overall win.
I did want to ask- I'm hanging these from a ceiling. Since they are dipoles..... what should I do about mounting height? Mount them flush? Hang them with absorption to eat up the back wave? Hang them and just leave them be? I know I can tune the frequency response with my DSP but that won't cover reflections. Then again this is a setup for a kitchen with hardwood floors and floor to ceiling windows so it might not even matter
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