DIY Flat Panel Speaker Love

[Unbiasedsound]

DML panels are similar to Open Baffle speakers where sound radiates from both the front and back almost equally. By hanging them on the wall it will restrict the sound coming from the back in which it could affect there performance as part of the magic from DML's comes from being able to produce sound from both sides.

Most exciters can play down to 100hz and starts dropping like a rock below 100hz so 150hz will be ok.

[Unbiasedsound]

The paint is actually used as the skin while the glue mixture is used for damping and to harden the panel.

Test each panel individually by moving the exciter around the center to find the highest frequencies then mark/circle the spot where the exciter sounds the best. If you can get someone to help you it would be even easier.

[listencarefully]

Those will work! I will order them when they are back in stock.

[listencarefully]

Its best to mount panels in a wood frame. Depth of frame can have different outcomes. A frame the same thickness as your panels will be more holographic while a frame with a deeper depth then your panels can have a more focused type of sound, its personal preference.

The 99 cent store also had an assortment of picture frames. I picked up on roughly the size of my panels. I may need to trim my foam panels a little but thought it would be worth trying them out.

There are many ways to mount the panel to frame and it will depend on ones design. For smaller panels I use Frost King foam all around the edges and snuggly fit it in the frame. Other methods is double sided tape or painters blue tape.

The picture frame has some metal tabs built in but I also picked up some foam tape at the 99 cents store. I also have some 3M double sided tape that I have used to hold the exciters to the back of my XPS panels.

Small panels should be placed on low stands so that the panels are below ear level and or you can build built in stands on the frame with just a wider piece of wood so that the frames don't tip over. You can also use a small 2inchX2inch piece of wood between the frame and wide wood to act as a decoupler. sp? lol

I was hoping to hang these on the wall. Do you think that would affect their performance significantly?

Since you are using a sub you don't have to run the exciter full range. If your receiver/amp does not have a high pass Xover you can just use a high pass (200uf) Nonpolarized electrolytic capacitor at around 100hz. Then you can dial in your powered sub at 100hz for low frequency.

I have a couple of 150hz High Pass filters that I purchased for my XPS panels. I also put in an order for some 100hz as you suggested. Do you feel there would be a noticeable difference using the 150's?



Thanks for all of your help! Will post with results when I get everything put together.

[listencarefully]

Here is where I am at so far....

I would get the higher density EPS. IMO Ideal thickness is around 1/4 inch (5-6mm). Size of panel is optional but like with smaller conventional cone speakers it seems that smaller panels image better. A small panel is one that is 10-12 inches in width and 14-16 inches in height if its a rectangle shape. If its a square shape then 10-12 inches even on all sides.

I purchased some 2lb EPS foam that was cut to 12" x 14" x 1/4". Here's what they look like.

Best all around exciter IMO is the T.E. TEAX19CO1-8. as it has the best balance of highs and lows.

I put in an order for these but may try them out with the DAEX25's I have on hand if I get impatient. :-)

Coat both sides of the panels with PVA glue mixture of 80% water and 20% glue.

I diluted PVA glue and painted it on the panels this morning. They still need to dry but can already see that it has made an impact on the panel surface.

Then you can spray paint ONE SIDE of your panels any color you want with a very light coat of gloss enamel spray paint. EPS is sensitive to corrosive chemicals so do not spray too much paint in one spot. Spray at least 2-3ft. away from panel. The side with the paint will be the front of the panel the side without the paint will be the back where the exciter will reside.

Do you like this over adding tint to the PVA solution?

Exciter placement should be close to the middle/center of the panel give or take a couple inches from the center, you need to play around to find where the best high frequencies will be close to the center. Once you find that perfect location you can either use the sticky tape that comes with the exciter to mount it to the panel but the sticky tape tends to fail after a while so if you want it permanent you can use the 5min. 2 part epoxy glue but make sure you remove the sticky tape from the exciter if using epoxy glue.

What would be a good way to test? Would mearly taping them to the back of the panel work until the best placement is found?

I picked up some epoxy at the 99 cents store. They had both the 5 min & 90 second.



See next post....

[Unbiasedsound]

Not a huge difference but there is a difference, and at $6.80 each or around $14.00 a pair they are cheaper and better then the Dayton DAEX25 but they dont have the spring loaded terminals.

I use these to attach to my frame and they are really cheap>https://www.parts-express.com/two-co...minal--260-300

[listencarefully]

Ok. So I picked up my 12” x 14” x 1/4” 2lb EPS foam panels today. Wow! What a difference from the 2’ x 2’ x 1’ project panels.

When I first saw them I thought they struck me as the size of a picture. So I went to the 99 cent store and picked up a couple of picture frames for $3 each.

While I was there I got some some of the epoxy you recommended and some foam mounting tape.

Will start coating and post pictures tomorrow!

[listencarefully]

This is SUPER helpful! I will put in the order for 12" x 14" x 1/4" 2lb EPS foam panels today.

I am hoping to use these outside. The DAEX25's are plastic coated and have a clip built in for the wire connections which makes it super easy to connect/disconnect the panels if necessary. Do you feel there is a huge difference in exciter performance? If so would you recommend a connection process for the TEAX19C01 's?

[Unbiasedsound]

OH I forgot to mention that smaller exciters 19mm and under that do not require much bass response do not need to use a spine.  Only the larger exciters with the heavier magnets and or when bass is needed do you need a spline to hold the magnet in place so that it does not sag and to have something to push off of for better bass response.

[Unbiasedsound]

First post to this forum. This thread is very helpful!

I built a couple dml speakers using the 2’ x 2’ xps project panels. My goal is to use them outside.

I used the Dayton Audio DAEX25 (5w) exciters powered by the Lepai LP-2020TI - 20 Watt amp. I think they produce plenty of volume but definitely miss the lower frequencies.

I have the ability to get 1lb or 2lb eps foam in basically any thickness and size. Would there be an ideal combination that would pair well with an outdoor sub?

Thanks in advance!

I would get the higher density EPS. IMO Ideal thickness is around 1/4 inch (5-6mm). Size of panel is optional but like with smaller conventional cone speakers it seems that smaller panels image better. A small panel is one that is 10-12 inches in width and 14-16 inches in height if its a rectangle shape. If its a square shape then 10-12 inches even on all sides. Best all around exciter IMO is the T.E. TEAX19CO1-8. as it has the best balance of highs and lows. Coat both sides of the panels with PVA glue mixture of 80% water and 20% glue. Then you can spray paint ONE SIDE of your panels any color you want with a very light coat of gloss enamel spray paint. EPS is sensitive to corrosive chemicals so do not spray too much paint in one spot. Spray at least 2-3ft. away from panel. The side with the paint will be the front of the panel the side without the paint will be the back where the exciter will reside. Exciter placement should be close to the middle/center of the panel give or take a couple inches from the center, you need to play around to find where the best high freguencies will be close to the center. Once you find that perfect location you can either use the sticky tape that comes with the exciter to mount it to the panel but the sticky tape tends to fail after a while so if you want it permanent you can use the 5min. 2 part epoxy glue but make sure you remove the sticky tape from the exciter if using epoxy glue..

Its best to mount panels in a wood frame. Depth of frame can have different outcomes. A frame the same thickness as your panels will be more holographic while a frame with a deeper depth then your panels can have a more focused type of sound, its personal preference. There are many ways to mount the panel to frame and it will depend on ones design. For smaller panels I use Frost King foam all around the edges and snuggly fit it in the frame. Other methods is double sided tape or painters blue tape. Small panels should be placed on low stands so that the panels are below ear level and or you can build built in stands on the frame with just a wider piece of wood so that the frames dont tip over. You can also use a small 2inchX2inch piece of wood between the frame and wide wood to act as a decoupler. sp? lol

Since you are using a sub you dont have to run the exciter full range. If your receiver/amp does not have a high pass Xover you can just use a high pass (200uf) Nonpolarized electrolytic capacitor at around 100hz. Then you can dial in your powered sub at 100hz for low frequency.

[listencarefully]

First post to this forum. This thread is very helpful!

I built a couple dml speakers using the 2’ x 2’ xps project panels. My goal is to use them outside.

I used the Dayton Audio DAEX25 (5w) exciters powered by the Lepai LP-2020TI - 20 Watt amp. I think they produce plenty of volume but definitely miss the lower frequencies.

I have the ability to get 1lb or 2lb eps foam in basically any thickness and size. Would there be an ideal combination that would pair well with an outdoor sub?

Thanks in advance!

[Unbiasedsound]

Like I've stated before DML's are similar to O.B. speakers but have a bipolar effect where sound radiates (almost) equally from the front and back. I've been watching GR Research (Danny Richie) videos on Open Baffle speakers and I've learned a lot from him even utilizing some of his techniques on my DML panels.

[JoeC]

Thank you for your reply Unbiasedsound!

[Unbiasedsound]

DML's are best when used like a open baffle design since sound is radiating from the front and the back, similar to a bipolar type of loudspeaker but not exactly as the radiation pattern are in and out of phase but so close together that the only difference is a "DIFFUSED" type of sound when compared to a conventional cone bipolar speaker.

This diffused type of sound is less susceptible to room reflections as a diffused sound has a weaker reflection. Conventional cone speakers are more susceptible to room reflections which is why some need "DIFFUSERS" to stop those strong reflections.

Like Open baffle speakers DML's should be at least 1ft. away from the walls with 2-3ft being ideal for optimum performance.

DML panels should also be placed at or below ear level. I prefer slightly below ear level because DML's have really good vertical dispersion. DML's also have very wide dispersion also so toe in is not really needed. In fact they can sound good even slightly toed out. lol

[Unbiasedsound]

Would that help the bass response like a bass reflex speaker?

It could a little but its not like a bass reflex speaker since most of its energy is modal 100hz and up instead of being pistonic like a conventional cone.