DIY Flat Panel Speaker Love

[bilidru]

You can use any picture or art canvas wooden frames....Depending on how much your DML panels weigh you can use galvanized 20 gauge wire on the frame and just hang them on a dry wall screw. Also there should be at least a 1 inch gap from the panel to the back wall as these are bipolar type of speakers where sound also radiates from the back. You can use some type of soft rubber/foam like this on the back of the picture frame. Cut 8 pieces about 1 inch and place them evenly on back of frame. This rubber foam will also prevent the wooden frame from rattling when touching the wall.

Oh, perfect. That sounds great. Thank you for your immediate response.
I've found 50cm square eps panels 10 and 6 mm thick. Are these measures ok for a 25mm exciter? They seem so thin...

[Unbiasedsound]

Hi, I'm new to this forum and to DML speakers. I read the first five pages and the last ten and have got some open questions also due to the fact that I don't understand every technical aspect in English, which is not my mothertongue. I'm not a hifi enthusiast. So it's not about building the best speakers.
Page 87 was helpful, as Unbiasedsound answered basic questions.
So I'm going to use two eps polysterene, 10mm thick and one 6 mm for a "bass" Panel. All powered by a fosi audio 2.1 amp.
My question is about how to hang them on the wall? In a wooden frame? Or using some wood construction, but 6 or 10mm don't seem to be much to use cotter pins. So I'm lost here and appreciate any uncomplicated solutions.
Thank you for any answer.

You can use any picture or art canvas wooden frames....Depending on how much your DML panels weigh you can use galvanized 20 gauge wire on the frame and just hang them on a dry wall screw. Also there should be at least a 1 inch gap from the panel to the back wall as these are bipolar type of speakers where sound also radiates from the back. You can use some type of soft rubber/foam like this on the back of the picture frame. Cut 8 pieces about 1 inch and place them evenly on back of frame. This rubber foam will also prevent the wooden frame from rattling when touching the wall.

[bilidru]

Hi, I'm new to this forum and to DML speakers. I read the first five pages and the last ten and have got some open questions also due to the fact that I don't understand every technical aspect in English, which is not my mothertongue. I'm not a hifi enthusiast. So it's not about building the best speakers.
Page 87 was helpful, as Unbiasedsound answered basic questions.
So I'm going to use two eps polysterene, 10mm thick and one 6 mm for a "bass" Panel. All powered by a fosi audio 2.1 amp.
My question is about how to hang them on the wall? In a wooden frame? Or using some wood construction, but 6 or 10mm don't seem to be much to use cotter pins. So I'm lost here and appreciate any uncomplicated solutions.
Thank you for any answer.

[Unbiasedsound]

My design will be similar to the Cambridge audio Aero speakers that use a conventional cone driver for the woofer and a BMR driver for the tweeter. Only difference is instead of the BMR driver I will be using DML panel.

[Unbiasedsound]

I am going to experiment with Shelly Katz "Layered Sound", technique of combining a conventional cone driver with a DML panel. I just placed an order for a pair of Visaton WS-17E 6.5" woofers.

The challenge is to get the correct configurations of a dml and conventional cone driver to blend together perfectly as Katz does not explain exactly how to do it.

[Unbiasedsound]

Using a Dayton DAEX 25FHE -4 exciter speaker on Foamular XPS panel ( 1" x 2' x2' ) . To block the frequency below 100hz would i use a 100uf capacitor ?

4 ohm=400uf cap at 99.38 hertz. The only cap at P.E. at 400uf is NPE caps. They are cheap but they can degrade the sound of the exciter....The Dayton caps is better but they only have a 100 uf cap which is very expensive compared to the NPE caps. The caps alone could cost more then your whole DML build.

[Unbiasedsound]

A single driver or single diaphragm, the rear wave is out of phase 180 degrees with the front wave

This is one of the reasons why DML's are different then conventional "cone", drivers.

[Unbiasedsound]

DML's are in phase so they are Bipolar. Again if they were out of phase then dipole.

[AEIOU]

I don't see how they are bipoles, unless there are two opposing drivers one on the front and one on the back. A single driver or single diaphragm, the rear wave is out of phase 180 degrees with the front wave. Equal front and back output has nothing to do with phase, it is phase that makes it a bipole or dipole. Either the back radiation is in phase or is out of phase. But whatever.

[Unbiasedsound]

OH MY GOODNESS. lol

[Unbiasedsound]

The sound radiating from the front and back are almost equal making them bipolar. If they were more out of phase then dipole.

[AEIOU]

Using a Dayton DAEX 25FHE -4 exciter speaker on Foamular XPS panel ( 1" x 2' x2' ) . To block the frequency below 100hz would i use a 100uf capacitor ?

A single high pass capacitor, wouldn't provide a very steep cutoff, only -6dB per octave. Depending on the exact impedance of the driver and a few other factors if that exciter is 4Ohms, then it would be 300uf or even 350uf.

[AEIOU]

Well, I haven't been following this thread at all, but I wouldn't call it a bipole, I'd say it's a dipole.

[peterv]

Using a Dayton DAEX 25FHE -4 exciter speaker on Foamular XPS panel ( 1" x 2' x2' ) . To block the frequency below 100hz would i use a 100uf capacitor ?

[DeZZar]

one of my audiophile buddy ... he told me if you think that is expensive there are certain caps that can cost $100.00 and over per cap

Aww....cute...
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/cat...er-p-4514.html

And that's in great British pounds....