Re: DIY Flat Panel Speaker Love
Hey mrmky and welcome to the Flat Panel Love thread!!!
I from reading I've done and what we see from commercial DML speakers, there appears to be little to gain from shapes that deviate largely from a rectangle for a single panel to exciter configuration. If multiple panels per side, I would consider changing the dimensions so the panels have the typical DML peaks and troughs at different frequencies so after combining multiple panels, there may be a smoother overall combined response.
I have not had the best luck with the Ultra exciter from a reliability standpoint so hard to recommend that for testing purposes. maybe once you have a design together that you like, I might be tempted to try the Ultra on XPS/EPS.
Otherwise, I really like the "Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciter" for testing. Its nice sounding and measures the smoothest of the exciters I have. the smaller mounting ring/voice coil also produces more extended high frequencies. Can't go wrong with this one.
Suspending with fishing line would be fine but someone used thin wire and that vibrated like a guitar sting. You would have less with fishing line but might still be audible. Foam is easier to work with as a light suspension material and you won't have to deal with that problem.
I'm not sure about the bowl shape. Not sure how the DML nodes that form on the panel would be impacted. It would be more rigid and seems like the "bowl" might more severely impact the generation of the nodes. Now what I can't say is if it helps or hurts. I tend to think it may lean to hurts more than helps but this is completely speculative. Only way to know is to try.
But I'd start out making a simple panel to enjoy and get accustomed to the DML panel presentation.
Its a mystery ma man... women *should* be more impressed but we just don't get the speaker "love" we deserve!! Tell her that you are helping with house chores and the shaking is actually, in fact, a light dusting activity.
I take mine off with a knife... wedging and a slight twisting between the panel and mounting plate usually pops off the exciter without to much damage. I remount with a higher quality Elmer's (Pro Advance max something!?) glue. Can remount again by sanding off the Elmer's.
Personally, I like to keep panels around to compare against later so I've been buying more exciters to keep them mounted to working panels.
The DAEX25FHE-4 is cheap so I'll be using that more and more for testing purposes. So much easier...
Hey mrmky and welcome to the Flat Panel Love thread!!!
Originally posted by mrmky
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I'll be ordering some exciters from PE in the next day or two, this sounds like a really fun project and a great way to get some hands on without having to invest $$$$$.
It seems that the thrusters and the ultras are the two most popular drivers, could anyone make some recommendations on where to start with exciter options? I'll be using an avr to power them, I'm not sure if running a 4 ohm load is a good idea? Should I be looking for 8 ohm exciters to be safe?
It seems that the thrusters and the ultras are the two most popular drivers, could anyone make some recommendations on where to start with exciter options? I'll be using an avr to power them, I'm not sure if running a 4 ohm load is a good idea? Should I be looking for 8 ohm exciters to be safe?
Otherwise, I really like the "Dayton Audio DAEX25FHE-4 Framed High Efficiency 25mm Exciter" for testing. Its nice sounding and measures the smoothest of the exciters I have. the smaller mounting ring/voice coil also produces more extended high frequencies. Can't go wrong with this one.
Mounting them seems to be an unresolved issue as well. I have read about duct tape, which would not fly anywhere except in the garage with the lady of the house. And seen pics of foam sandwiched between the panels and a frame, which is better visually but still not great with WAF. What about a band of fishing line/string/rope/strap encircling the panel with tie offs to a frame that enclosed the edges without touching the panels. Perhaps with ~1/4" clearance except for the tie off points?
Another thought I had was shaping the panel like a bowl. With a thick enough piece of foam you could remove material to shape it like a shallow cone. If you used a mounting method like mentioned above in a round shape you could use tension in the rope and mounting points to play with dampening at different points.
Another thought I had was shaping the panel like a bowl. With a thick enough piece of foam you could remove material to shape it like a shallow cone. If you used a mounting method like mentioned above in a round shape you could use tension in the rope and mounting points to play with dampening at different points.
Please don't hesitate to shoot down any 'silly' ideas, it won't hurt my feelings and if someone knows it will be a waste of time I would rather know before I have wasted it.
But I'd start out making a simple panel to enjoy and get accustomed to the DML panel presentation.
I have several panels of 2'x4'x1" that I am going to start shaping into various sizes and shapes while I wait for my parts to be delivered. Really looking forward to another speaker project, especially one that doesn't set me back financially the way my last one did. I love my 'Johnny Sub', but my wife isn't quite as enthusiastic lol. Why aren't most women impressed when you build speakers that can shake pictures off the walls?!.
One last question, is there a good way to take the exciters off and reapplying them to different panels? Or do I need to just order several pairs of them if I want to play with different panels?
Personally, I like to keep panels around to compare against later so I've been buying more exciters to keep them mounted to working panels.
The DAEX25FHE-4 is cheap so I'll be using that more and more for testing purposes. So much easier...
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