A few months back I acquired a pair of Dayton B652 Air speakers and grew to like the sound from the little AMT tweeter that came with them. I modded the speaker mostly in the LF section (new woofer, XO, etc) and was very pleased with the result.
Now, when I'm toying with my Intimates speakers, as I did recently, I rotated the AIR's into my stereo system as backups.
So, the little AMT's led me to see if I could find some larger ones that would fit the tweeter rebate that has been accommodating in the past to the original SS tweeters and more recently, the Vifa Ring Radiator tweeters. I found the Mundorf AMT model AMT19CM2. 1-C with 104 mm flange fit nicely into my cabinets.
I know I had a challenge on my hands with the mismatch in SPL eff. between the AMT's and the SS 15W revelator bass/mid (93 vs 84.5 dB) and relatively high recommended crossover point of 2,300 hz. Madisound recommends this tweeter for 3-way designs and offers larger ones for 2-way use. But, I was determined to make the 19CM2's work.
As I have done in the past, I mounted the new tweeter into one cabinet and ran connector wires out thru the vent tube from both the tweeter and bass/mid. After a week or so of tinkering, I was able to patch together an external XO at about 2,300 hz with 2nd order LP and HP and, of course an L-Pad for attenuation. Below are a few Omni-mic tests of the final result. The FR's are on axis and HD is 3rd order.



I know there are those who don't care for ribbon tweeters, but I like these and the overall sound of the speakers now in its 3rd generation.
A couple of minor gripes about this relatively expensive tweeter. The connectors at the back are tab type for push on female connectors. However, they are very thick and one must open up the female connectors a little so they slide on without any breakage of the connection at the back of the tweeter. The second thing is they provide screws with the tweeters but I don't recommend their use. The are countersunk type (no problem with that) but their drive hole is a very small hex socket. If you don't pre-drill the screw holes in the cabinet just the right size, the hex socket can be easily stripped when applying sufficient torque on an allen wrench to get that last few turns of the screw to sock it properly down flush with the face plate.
Now, when I'm toying with my Intimates speakers, as I did recently, I rotated the AIR's into my stereo system as backups.
So, the little AMT's led me to see if I could find some larger ones that would fit the tweeter rebate that has been accommodating in the past to the original SS tweeters and more recently, the Vifa Ring Radiator tweeters. I found the Mundorf AMT model AMT19CM2. 1-C with 104 mm flange fit nicely into my cabinets.
I know I had a challenge on my hands with the mismatch in SPL eff. between the AMT's and the SS 15W revelator bass/mid (93 vs 84.5 dB) and relatively high recommended crossover point of 2,300 hz. Madisound recommends this tweeter for 3-way designs and offers larger ones for 2-way use. But, I was determined to make the 19CM2's work.
As I have done in the past, I mounted the new tweeter into one cabinet and ran connector wires out thru the vent tube from both the tweeter and bass/mid. After a week or so of tinkering, I was able to patch together an external XO at about 2,300 hz with 2nd order LP and HP and, of course an L-Pad for attenuation. Below are a few Omni-mic tests of the final result. The FR's are on axis and HD is 3rd order.
I know there are those who don't care for ribbon tweeters, but I like these and the overall sound of the speakers now in its 3rd generation.
A couple of minor gripes about this relatively expensive tweeter. The connectors at the back are tab type for push on female connectors. However, they are very thick and one must open up the female connectors a little so they slide on without any breakage of the connection at the back of the tweeter. The second thing is they provide screws with the tweeters but I don't recommend their use. The are countersunk type (no problem with that) but their drive hole is a very small hex socket. If you don't pre-drill the screw holes in the cabinet just the right size, the hex socket can be easily stripped when applying sufficient torque on an allen wrench to get that last few turns of the screw to sock it properly down flush with the face plate.
Comment