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First DIY: Classix II success!

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  • silverD
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Gary,
    You may want to consider these as well.
    -Nate

    Leave a comment:


  • kevin007
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by garychelette View Post
    I have built the BR1's a few years back. My older brother has them now. I felt that they sounded very close to a pair of Polk R20's. Polk said they were 8 Ohms but they are not. They also said it was 60-20,000 Hz at 89db. Not sure on that.
    BR-1 is listed at 43-18,000 Hz at 85 db and a true 8 Ohms.The BR1's did sound a bit more even and smoother. I liked the sound. Building the Classic II would cost more, but is it that much better?
    I have not heard the BR-1 kit, but my Classix II's are my favorite speaker thus far. They sound great weather I bust out one of my Esa Pekka Salonen CD's or if I want to bang my head to Metallica. They have a fantastic sound IMHO. I also use them all the time in my Bedroom surround system, and sound just as good as they do with music.

    Kevin

    Leave a comment:


  • garychelette
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by silverD View Post
    Hi Gary,
    I haven't heard both, but someone who has will hopefully chime in. Have you read the BR-1 manual? They go in depth in regards to the crossover design and you can compare this to the Classix II design.
    -Nate
    I have built the BR1's a few years back. My older brother has them now. I felt that they sounded very close to a pair of Polk R20's. Polk said they were 8 Ohms but they are not. They also said it was 60-20,000 Hz at 89db. Not sure on that.
    BR-1 is listed at 43-18,000 Hz at 85 db and a true 8 Ohms.The BR1's did sound a bit more even and smoother. I liked the sound. Building the Classic II would cost more, but is it that much better?

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Hi Gary,
    I haven't heard both, but someone who has will hopefully chime in. Have you read the BR-1 manual? They go in depth in regards to the crossover design and you can compare this to the Classix II design.
    -Nate

    Leave a comment:


  • garychelette
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    What is the main difference between the Classic II and the BR1 ?
    They both use the same woofer.
    I do see the tweet is very different. How would to describe the sound between the two?


    Gary

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Carmody
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by Diskiodo View Post
    Amp,
    About the crossover node stuff, I found these two explainations to be helpful:
    http://speakerdesignworks.com/nodal_analysis.html
    http://www.parts-express.com/resourc...ng-a-crossover

    When applying the principles to the classix ii layout, I arrived at this:
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]61598[/ATTACH]

    These nodes should correspond to the nodes and leads shown in my first picture. I liked the look of having node 0 radiate out, and it gave a pleasing hexagonal shape. I liked this layout because there are no jumper wires all over the back side. Hope this helps!
    Nice work. Thank you for posting that. It should help some newbies looking at electrical diagrams for the first time.

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by amp View Post
    I'm new at this, sorry. :o
    Amp,
    These are all good questions. Good work Diskiodo on the nodal analysis of the crossover. I too try to lay them out such that the coils are far apart in the correct orientations and then fill in the rest of the components while trying to eliminate jumper wires. Amp, as you do more crossover layouts you'll find this comes second nature.
    -Nate

    Leave a comment:


  • Diskiodo
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Amp,
    About the crossover node stuff, I found these two explainations to be helpful:
    http://speakerdesignworks.com/nodal_analysis.html
    http://www.parts-express.com/resourc...ng-a-crossover

    When applying the principles to the classix ii layout, I arrived at this:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	1447226525421.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	153.1 KB
ID:	1170151

    These nodes should correspond to the nodes and leads shown in my first picture. I liked the look of having node 0 radiate out, and it gave a pleasing hexagonal shape. I liked this layout because there are no jumper wires all over the back side. Hope this helps!

    Leave a comment:


  • Diskiodo
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Amp,
    About the crossover node stuff, I found these two explainations to be helpful:
    http://speakerdesignworks.com/nodal_analysis.html
    http://www.parts-express.com/resourc...ng-a-crossover

    When applying the principles to the classix ii layout, I arrived at this:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	1447226525421.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	153.1 KB
ID:	1170151

    These nodes should correspond to the nodes and leads shown in my first picture. I liked the look of having node 0 radiate out, and it gave a pleasing hexagonal shape. I liked this layout because there are no jumper wires all over the back side. Hope this helps!

    Leave a comment:


  • chrisn
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by Diskiodo View Post
    Thanks for the welcome! As requested, here are some pics. I just figured the br1 cabinets are pretty basic, so no need to elaborate. I run them on an SMSL Q5 and the sound is fantastic and the bass is surprising in a clean way, never obtrusive. I think they are sounding better by the day. I use them for Pandora and the occasional movie or video game. I have yet to really crank them on an intense game of Uncharted or the shootout from Heat. And I have to agree, every consideration that Paul put into this design applies to my situation as well. They just seem to make everything sound great.
    The final product.

    The scuffs are from the grills being damaged during delivery :\. A little glue and they are back to normal. I was wondering if I should be co concerned about the gap between the tweeter flange and the baffle recess.
    You can cover the gap around the tweeter with black tape. You probably won't be able to see it if you use the grilles.

    Leave a comment:


  • Diskiodo
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by amp View Post
    How did that not cross my mind?

    So, when the BOM says "100+ V" for the capacitor, does it need to be over 100 V? Or can it be exactly 100V?
    And I'm also looking for the non-polarized capacitor, right?

    I'm new at this, sorry. :o
    Hi amp! Here's the parts I used (the first numbers are the parts express part numbers):

    300-645 DAYTON AUDIO BR-1CAB BR-1 6-1/2" 2-WAY SPEAKER CABINET PAIR 62.25
    370-054 KESTER POCKET PACK SILVER SOLDER 0.020" 0.35 OZ. TUBE 3.25
    004-10 DAYTON AUDIO DNR-10 10 OHM 10W PRECISION AUDIO GRADE RESISTO 1.38
    004-4 DAYTON AUDIO DNR-4.0 4 OHM 10W PRECISION AUDIO GRADE RESISTO 1.38
    004-6 DAYTON AUDIO DNR-6.0 6 OHM 10W PRECISION AUDIO GRADE RESISTO 1.38
    027-340 10UF 100V ELECTROLYTIC NON-POLARIZED CROSSOVER CAPACITOR 0.67
    027-360 100UF 100V ELECTROLYTIC NON-POLARIZED CROSSOVER CAPACITOR 1.50
    027-422 DAYTON AUDIO DMPC-4.7 4.7UF 250V POLYPROPYLENE CAPACITOR 2.79
    027-424 DAYTON AUDIO DMPC-6.8 6.8UF 250V POLYPROPYLENE CAPACITOR 3.19
    255-026 JANTZEN AUDIO 0.25MH 20 AWG AIR CORE INDUCTOR CROSSOVER COIL 5.52
    255-036 JANTZEN AUDIO 0.50MH 20 AWG AIR CORE INDUCTOR CROSSOVER COIL 6.40
    255-254 JANTZEN AUDIO 1.2MH 18 AWG AIR CORE INDUCTOR CROSSOVER COIL 11.30
    264-1040 TYMPHANY BC25TG15-04 1" SILK DOME TWEETER 16.70
    295-305 DAYTON AUDIO DC160-8 6-1/2" CLASSIC WOOFER 21.78

    The total for all the parts was around $212.
    Last edited by Diskiodo; 11-11-2015, 12:08 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • amp
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    How did that not cross my mind?

    So, when the BOM says "100+ V" for the capacitor, does it need to be over 100 V? Or can it be exactly 100V?
    And I'm also looking for the non-polarized capacitor, right?

    I'm new at this, sorry. :o

    Leave a comment:


  • Dewmiester
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by amp View Post
    Wow, thank you for sharing this info/build with the world. I have been waiting since July for PE to stock up on the Classix IIs, checking the website at least 2x daily (It's been over 100 days!). The person behind DIYsoundgroup informed me that he had passed all of his kits over to PE, and man has it been a wait. Now I can actually start building the kit myself with these BR1 cabinets, thanks to you, and I can stop wasting the site's bandwidth!


    Can you elaborate on the nodal technique? I don't have any experience with schematics myself. Also, do you think your coiled inductors are far enough apart so that they don't interfere with each other? I have read that this can be a problem, especially if you can see another inductor through one of the holes, which isn't a problem with your layout (maybe just the spacing?).


    By the way, does anyone know of a PE employee I can contact to purchase the Classix kit even though they don't have it officially listed on the website? I would love to support PE instead of buying the speakers elsewhere, and only buying the cabinets from here.


    Thanks Paul C. for all of your designs. I have read your site religiously. This will be my first DIY speaker project. I highly doubt I would have gotten into this without your website. Hopefully I'll learn enough to start my own kits and follow in your footsteps.
    You can go to Paul's website and get the BOM, here, https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy

    Leave a comment:


  • amp
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by Diskiodo View Post
    ....My time, space, and wood finishing skills are limited, so I used the .52 cuft. BR1 ported cabinet from PE...... I used the recommended nodal technique to make sense of the schematic since it was my first time soldering as well.


    It seems there are hundreds of Classix II builds, but I just wanted to thank Paul and the forums for allowing me to lurk and learn! :D

    Wow, thank you for sharing this info/build with the world. I have been waiting since July for PE to stock up on the Classix IIs, checking the website at least 2x daily (It's been over 100 days!). The person behind DIYsoundgroup informed me that he had passed all of his kits over to PE, and man has it been a wait. Now I can actually start building the kit myself with these BR1 cabinets, thanks to you, and I can stop wasting the site's bandwidth!


    Can you elaborate on the nodal technique? I don't have any experience with schematics myself. Also, do you think your coiled inductors are far enough apart so that they don't interfere with each other? I have read that this can be a problem, especially if you can see another inductor through one of the holes, which isn't a problem with your layout (maybe just the spacing?).




    By the way, does anyone know of a PE employee I can contact to purchase the Classix kit even though they don't have it officially listed on the website? I would love to support PE instead of buying the speakers elsewhere, and only buying the cabinets from here.


    Thanks Paul C. for all of your designs. I have read your site religiously. This will be my first DIY speaker project. I highly doubt I would have gotten into this without your website. Hopefully I'll learn enough to start my own kits and follow in your footsteps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Diskiodo
    replied
    Re: First DIY: Classix II success!

    Originally posted by silverD View Post
    I completed my Classix II build and it can be seen here. Thanks again to Paul and Diskiodo.
    Awesome work silverD. Fantastic pictures too.

    Leave a comment:

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