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1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

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  • 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

    I'm going to be building my very first set of speakers soon for a 5.1 surround build. I decided on the components only kit and thus will be building the cb insets myself from scratch. I have access to a table saw but will cut the pieces to a workable size using a circular saw and guide. I don't have a plunge router nor a circle jig, but I made a super quick test template in like 10 mi.nutes the other day and it worked really well as I tested it on some scrap mdf I had laying around. I set the base depth to 0 and then slowly lowered the bit into the piece and cut the circle. I actually cut a full 1/4" in one pass with a very old straight bit and the cut came out perfect. I do intend to buy a spiral down bit to make the real cuts.

    Now when cutting the panels for the enclosure, I've been reading that I should actually make the cuts slightly oversized and then flush trim them with my router, how oversized should the panels be, 1/8"? I'm still debating on whether or not I want to glue and screw or just glue and clamp to minimize screw holes. If I screw, I would be using bonds to fill the holes. Now, when the enclosure is built I intend to do the water glue mix to seal the entire box and ends. Should I be sealing the inside as well? Also I intend to do a 1/8" rounder on all of the sides including the baffle as I really like the small radius looks.

    I will finish the box using automotive paint and have them sprayed in a paint booth as I have access to a shop for all of that.

    I am going to forego the use of hurricane nuts or equivalent and use just a black wood screw to mount the drivers as I have used just basic drywall screws in the past when building car audio subwoofer boxes and never had a problem installing and removing them more than a few times.

    The crossovers I'm going to build into the very bottom of the enclosure and make it so I can remove them if problems arise and install sand in the bottom like another builder has done. Ok so thats my plan, just need to get the mdf and away we go

  • #2
    Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

    I have just started drawing up my cut sheet for the panels and using Sketchup I've come to realize that these design drawings don't work with the information given. I see a bunch of the drawings show a 78* angle for the inside back panel and 6" and 6" on each side of it at the bottom. If I hold the 4" outlet opening, the actual angle of the back panel is 77.4* and at the bottom I have offset distances from front and back, not 6 and 6". I think i'm going to just hold the 4" outlet opening and let everything else just fall into place. BTW, i'm building these like the 36" models and just adding the extra foot at the bottom seperate for the crossover and the ballast.

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    • #3
      Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

      I'm also thinking about changing the front baffle to make it the full 7.5" as the recess for the woofer doesn't leave much material and looks like it could be a little fragile.

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      • #4
        Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

        I prefer a spiral up bit to clear the cut as you go. Tilting the router in helps to keep the outside of the cut cleaner. If you are making a bunch of these consider making a template for your router and use a bushing. I made one and cut the woofers and tweeter recesses at the same time.

        Think through the oversize panels, anything bounded by two other panels should be your best cuts. Try cutting the panel dimensions that are the same all at the same time without moving your fence. I use a 16th or 1 mm if I’m over sizing.

        Skip the screws and use clamps and weights. The holes and filler seem to telegraph through the finish. I don’t seal the insides and don’t use hurricane nuts anymore. After you glue up give the MDF a week or so to dry out before final sanding.

        Curt’s web site show 7.5 inch width http://www.speakerdesignworks.com/Tritrix_pg_3.html I've added plywood backers behind MDF rabates

        Furniture lacquer is half the price of automotive paint.
        John H

        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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        • #5
          Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

          Does the upcut bit leave a nice edge? I was considering the down spiral because all I have been reading is that the down spiral leave a very sharp clean edge. And yes the full width of the box is 7.5" but all the builds cut the front baffle to 6" .

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          • #6
            Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

            It depend on what you are cutting. Splintery veneered plywood I might use a down cut bit. I've had no problems with MDF. As you need to cut a test hole or two you will know right away.
            John H

            Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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            • #7
              Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

              You want an up-cut bit when doing the driver relief, as it's a closed-bottom hole. the down-cut has advantages if you do oversize boxes. I have all straight bits, without a plunge router or commercial circle jig, and have made dozens of speakers. Special tools are nice but not mandatory.

              Once I discovered rabbeting router bits, I stopped building with b*u*t*t joints and started doing rabbeted b*u*t*t joints. In 3/4", I do a 1/2 x 3/4 rabbet. (A Dado is a groove that fits a panel. A rabbet is a one-sided dado.)

              You can't over-seal MDF. Conversely, no amount of sealing will keep joint lines from showing eventually. That's another reason to love rabbets; the seal is 1/4" from the edge, and easily hidden by a rounding-over the edge.

              Hurricane / T nuts can be more bother than they're worth. I love PE's #6 and #8 black screws.

              HAve fun,
              Frank

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              • #8
                Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                Ok upcut spiral bit it is. I might have to look into rabbeting the edges for assembly. I've been seeing some builds with that and looks like it could aid in the assembly process as well as really making a super strong joint with all the added area for the glue to bond to. I think I have a 1/4" shank x 3/8" router bit.

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                • #9
                  Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                  I'd invest the extra time in 45 degree corners when using MDF. It keeps the joints from telegraphing through the finish or veneer. 45s take a bit a practice as you need to make a pretty shallow final cuts to keep the blade from pulling or lifting the material. I would guess the guys with 220 volt cabinet saw probably don't have that problem.
                  John H

                  Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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                  • #10
                    Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                    I'm building the standard 36" TL enclosure, but making the side panels 48" tall with 2 separate compartments below the main enclosure for the the ballast and the crossover. I was going to put the crossover in the chamber right below the main enclosure and the ballast chamber for a little extra stability at the very bottom. I have read some articles about some using the sand to aid in better bass, that is not what i'm trying to do, but if that does help, should the sand be right below the main enclosure or does that not matter?

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                    • #11
                      Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                      I built a 5.1 Tritrix system. It sounded quite nice.

                      I tried the oversize panel method once with mdf, going about 1/8" over. The amount of dust, nasty choking messy, sticky dust, was just amazing. Beware.

                      I made TL mains and put the crossover in the bottom of the enclosure, visible through the back. Convenient.

                      I made a few speakers before buying a plunge router and jig. Reconsider your plans, it is so much easier with the right tools.

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                      • #12
                        Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                        Lower is better for the ballast. Sand is a mess. It will leak through the smallest crack and get all over everything. For ballast consider making MDF blocks or anything other than sand. I tried using sand on some speaker stands,
                        John H

                        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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                        • #13
                          Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                          I was going to put the sand in sealed bags. Might even look into using steel plates as I get for free. Another option is maybe some lead shot

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                          • #14
                            Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                            Kitty litter (bagged) has been used. If you go w/steel, you have to keep it away from coils in the crossover.

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                            • #15
                              Re: 1st time home theater speaker build: Tritrix TL Tallboys, Tips and tricks?

                              I had issues with the front baffle being recessed. I have done every box after that with the baffle full width. This also helps by getting the joints on the side, less in your face if they show through the paint.

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