Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

[mattsk8]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

So this is what I came up with. Pretty much option 3: But with a minor twist.


The setup--not shown is a simple trick using a right angle to find the center of the circle--this after using the baffle to draw the inner diameter:

This is a great way to get centered!Must of snoozed that day in geometry or distracted checking out Karla's legs:
http://www.mathopenref.com/constcirclecenter2.html

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Nice job! Is that a AE woofer? I really want to use one some day soon

[JRS]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

So this is what I came up with. Pretty much option 3: But with a minor twist.


The setup--not shown is a simple trick using a right angle to find the center of the circle--this after using the baffle to draw the inner diameter:

This is a great way to get centered!Must of snoozed that day in geometry or distracted checking out Karla's legs:
http://www.mathopenref.com/constcirclecenter2.html

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[JRS]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Not assuming anything about your skill Paul. Answering the OP's question. he said he was thinking about Denovo flat packs. I'm sure Erich's holes ARE round. This thread looks like another case where folks really didn't read the original question.

Indeed they are--got the first cab built--everything squared and flushed beautifully. Good stuff. Wife is of the opinion cabs are too big and when I started talking T-S parameters indicating just the opposite, just yawned/smiled.

[JRS]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Oh so close: the holes are a smidgeon too small--I'm guessing no more than 3 or 4 hundredths. I'll likely go with option 3.as I cane across a good way to find the exact center of a circle using a framers square. Post when I have the holes cut--too much to do today!

[fastbike1]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Not assuming anything about your skill Paul. Answering the OP's question. he said he was thinking about Denovo flat packs. I'm sure Erich's holes ARE round. This thread looks like another case where folks really didn't read the original question.

You're assuming the inside of my woofer cutouts are perfectly round, which they rarely are (because I'm sloppy when the cut is finished) :p

[sdl2112]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Option 3 as shown by Troels...

MAKING_A_DRIVER_HOLE_BIGGER

[the kid]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Another option to consider is to simply add another whole baffle and then cut out to your specs. This does slightly alter the original looks, but may be acceptable to some.

[kenrhodes]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

I have been using bushing kits more and more, they are cheap and you can use them with all your router bits. They also work with all shapes. here are a few I have and recomend:
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...set-98361.html
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/159...5uGBoCXY3w_wcB

The inlay kit makes quick work of even the most complicated tweeter holes. Trace the tweeter with a 3/16 wall washer onto some Masonite then cut the hole then you have a perfect template.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-s0Dq4JVsgs...-table-top.jpg

To check the washer to make sure it will work for the jig you have measure from the outside of the bushing to the outside of the router bit. That is the dimension that needs to match the washer wall.This method also works as a redneck way to enlarge a template you already have.

[djg]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

What Fastbike said. Since this is a CNC'd Denovo flat pack, the hole will be round. Or the template from 1/4" ply and a flush trim bit.

[mattsk8]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

You could have just screwed it with the driver holes. No extra holes needed.

Later,
Wolf

Or just glue it because then I don't need to think about routing thru screws, plus the glue holds perfectly and I've never had an issue doing that ;)

[Wolf]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

No, glue not screw... just don't get carried away with the glue. Once I'm done I take a wood chisel and knock the temporary piece out. I'm not a fan of using screws (especially in the tweeter area because it's already small) because you're making another hole that doesn't need to be there, plus it's not as stable as it would be with just glue. This was one I did where I swapped the original tweeter with one that was quite a bit bigger diameter. The red rectangle would be the board I glued to the backside.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]62341[/ATTACH]

You could have just screwed it with the driver holes. No extra holes needed.

Later,
Wolf

[Foghorn]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

When I went bonkers with building line arrays I bought one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/flush-Depth-Ra.../dp/B0000225ZR

It works great for making a flange face around an existing hole

Foghorn

[mattsk8]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Rabbbeting bit works best, provided the existing hole is good and round.]

It works the fastest, but I wouldn't say the best. For most woofers with a round frame it would work well, but for most tweeters it wouldn't be an option because you always need to cut a spot out for the leads.

Obviously everyone has their way. The template/tracing bit is a good option, but IMO there's more room for error that way than there is if you just glue the wood back in the hole and re-route it with a Jasper jig; and by the time you cut the template, you could've been done gluing scrap pieces in your original hole anyhow. The size of the cabinet also has a large effect on the success of the template too, smaller cabinets are harder to use a template on because you run out of room to clamp the template to the cabinet. And even still, I'm always nervous the template will move either while I'm clamping them or if I push too hard with the router.

When I mounted the square TL tweeters where the HDS tweeter used to be, I filled the original recess with bondo because the HDS tweeter mounted deeper than the TL I was replacing it with. Then I put a stop board on my template so I didn't need to think about anything other than the side-to-side measurements, I'd just push the stop board against the top of the cabinet, and I cut the template the same width as the cabinet so it was pretty simple without much room for error.

Template and original hole filled...


New one routed in...


And Bob's your uncle :p

[chrisn]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

Rabbbeting bit works best, provided the existing hole is good and round. I recently screwed up two cutouts, and fixed those by adding a .25" layer of HDF permanently to the baffle. I have two rabbeting bits, and the bearings are interchangeable between them, creating more sizes.

http://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Rout.../dp/B000K2AEFY
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...it_rabbet.html

[JRS]

Re: Quick router question re widening a woofer flange cutout.

I've done this a number of times as well, and never had much trouble. What i did was use the original cutout portion of wood, putting it back into the hole it was cut from, and fixing everything in position with double sided tape. It actually holds adequately to position the pin from the circle jig, whichever type you use. You can position it pretty accurately by eyesight, since the cutout size doesn't differ from the baffle hole very much, and you simply look for a symmetrical gap all the way around.
I did purchase a 3/4" rabbet bit (1/2" shank) just recently from MLCS, and if that is too big you can see about other bearing sizes to reduce it. I am not sure what .64" translates into, its a hair larger than 5/8's.

Thanks for another option--I would like a big rabbet/bearing set--maybe Santa is taking notes.